Karibu Kenya! Welcome to Kenya!

We arrived safe and sound on Monday 5/16/11 at around 6am, the Nairobi airport was easy to navigate as most all the signs are in English and Kiswahili. There was a station of visa applications and declaration forms in front of the visa/passport desk where we all double and triple checked our story and paperwork to make sure everyone was on the same page. We breezed through both visa and customs and took our first steps outside into the warm humid air. We were immediately met by our host and guide Mr. Barasa holding a “Ray of Hope” sign at the exit. We were then packed up into a matatu ( small van, like a VW bus) where Mr. Brarasa prayed over the next leg of our journey. The traffic here is unlike anything I have previously experienced it seems as if there are no laws what so ever, no right of way, few signals, and lot’s and lot’s of traffic! Vehicles weave in and out of lines up onto dirt paths where pedestrians are walking, motorcycles with three people riding, dart between cars and busses, it really feels like a free-for-all everywhere you go. After only 1 hour in traffic we passed through the first set of security gates where a row of white Mercedes benz and Toyota camery taxi cabs waited for fairs. Around the corner the tall green gates of the Musmark guest house where opened when the matatu driver honked signally the security/gate man of our arrival.

The lush greenery of the Musmark lines the driveway in and the charming old English style cottage greets you with a tall ivy covered chimney. The staff is amazing Judy our main hostess is very friendly and ready to help in anyway. The main house is used for meals which are freshly prepared and are always delicious, comprised of a mix of traditional African dishes like Ugali and more common familiar things like grilled chicken or fried Tillapia. Our room was located around the back of the main house past the enormous bright green lawn, large gazeebo and rich landscaped gardens. The room itself had three twin beds with mosquito nets over each, two medium size closets and a small bathroom with tub, shower, sink and W.C. toilet (which flushes, as opposed to the latreen which we ran into later).

Our first week in Nairobi was primarily for orientation, we had a few lectures in the meeting room at the Musmark and a few field trips during those days, though Monday was mostly spent sleeping.

Road safety (which will coincidentally be a major factor affecting our trip in a few days time) was our first lecture, given by Bright, a wonderful woman who works for SOMETHING an organization dedicated to improving traffic safety in developing countries. This is an important lecture, as the roads here are quite dangerous at times and you really need to be alert and always aware of your surrounding while walking ( and you will do A-LOT of walking). Kenya doesn’t really have a good emergency response system. Ambulances are few and far between on top of that they are just a taxi matatu with a stretcher, they are not staffed with trained personnel so there is no care provided to the patient enroute to the hospital. Most of the time it is good Samaritan’s who extricate the injured and the majority of the population have no concept of basic emergency care and sometimes actually do harm in an effort to help.

Masai Market – We experienced the main market on a Tuesday (there is another one on Saturdays, which is, I’ve been told, a little smaller and not as hectic) While the market itself is filled with a generous array of wonderful items that make great souvieniers; carved and painted bowls, antique and new masks, jewelry, scarves, t-shirts, carved statues, batiks, leather items, ect.. You will be OVERWHELMED not just in the variety of items but the attention you receive, be prepared to be swarmed by 5-6 men (think of the most aggressive, personable used car salesman you have ever experienced and multiply him by 5) and then barter like a miser. It is easy to get split up because you get surrounded, do not panic you are safe just keep an eye on where other people are ( it will be easy to tell, just look for the other giant group) These guys are middle men, brokering deals between you and the vendors, they will mark up the goods by thousands of shillings/hundreds of dollars. Barasa told us to counter offer 1/3 what they are asking and not to pay more than 1/2, my experience suggests that will work best with the vendors themselves, the middle men start too high for this, so I recommend having a ball park for what you think is reasonable in US dollars and start with ½ of that number. I also HIGHLY recommend really understanding the conversion and have a few numbers converted out so you can quickly ballpark it. (ie: when we were here it was 85:1 so roughly 500ks = 6$ 1,000ks = 12$ 5,000ks = 60$ 15,000 = 175$) unfortunately I didn’t have these estimates memorized until after the market. Also something I wish I had known is that if you really like something but the middle man price is to high and you walk away, when the middle men leave the vendors will find you and barter at a more reasonable price.

Kawangware – This slum is close to the Musmark and you’ll spend a day there touring the clinic, the learning center and visiting some of the homes of the children. It is an amazing experience, you will be moved to the point of tears many times that day and I can’t begin to describe all the things you will see and the impact it will have on you, so I won’t try. I will however give you some tips

– you can take pictures at the school, the kids and mama’s are honored to have their pictures taken when they first come down and sing for you. After that always ask first.

- You should put your camera away while walking through the slum and no pictures on the streets, you can take pictures of the kids parents and houses, but again ask first.

- it costs 500$/yr to sponsor a child through primary school - 800$/yr for secondary with an 8yr commitment for secondary.

- There will be a child that completely steals your heart, Cynthia stole mine.

Kiswahili lessons – Well worth the effort, Mariam is an excellent teacher she makes it fun to learn and is very patient with those of us who struggle. Kiswahili is pretty easy to learn and very easy to pick up at least a few phrases that will not only come in handy but win you lot’s of friends for you effort. Everything is pronounced just as it is written only vowel letters are read differently ( A = ah as in Kenya E= a vowel sound a I = vowel sound e, O is o, U = oo as in school ) so Asante for reading.

The trip to Migori – Our adventure began at 8am we all piled into a matatu and off we went. About 1.5hrs into the trip a car was trying to overtake (pass) another car and went off the road and down a steep embankment about 50-75ft. We stopped and everyone hopped out Tammy and Barasa ran down the hill while a few of us unpacked a first aid kit and a blanket for a stretcher. The patient was carried up the hill in a sheet and put into the back of a SUV driven by a British man who was familiar with the area and knew of a hospital that was close. Tammy and Barasa hoped into the SUV and provided care to the patient while the rest of our group followed in the matatu. Unfortunately the driver of our matatu lost sight of the SUV and did not know where the hospital was, to make matters worse he didn’t speak English and was lost. Eventually we made it to the hospital where we met up with Tammy and Barasa, by this time it was too late to continue on so we returned to the Musmark for the night.

The trip to Migori: Take 2 – Went off without a hitch. The trip is around 7 hour’s long, try to stay awake at least the first two hours because it will take you near the Masai Mara where we caught a glimpse of some zebra and giaraffe. The countryside on the way is beautiful, dotted with small communities every few kilometers. I recommend watching out the window and appreciating the beauty, instead of watching how the vehicle is driven, all the close calls, the anxiety and panic attacks.

Today was our first day at St. Joseph Mission Hospital, it was an amazing day! We were warmly welcomed by everyone at the hospital. After a brief meeting with administration and introductions to the clinical officers (Africa's version of PA's) Dr. Agullo took us right under his wing. We examined a few patients and walked over to the theatre (OR) and helped deliver a baby!! how's that for as Dr. Agullo called it "introduction by fire". After a tour of the entire hospital from the lab and pharmacy to the morgue and laundry we met virtually every staff member and were genuinely welcomed by each one. We then headed back up to sort all the items we packed and donated to the hospital. It's amazing how much we packed into those 50lb bags and it's apparent how grateful they are for each one.

It's been a long day so I am about to sit down to a wonderful meal prepared by our amazing house hostess Alice.

until next time, Utapona (be well )